How To · Fashion · Build
How to hem pants and skirts by hand
A proper hem doesn't require a sewing machine—just a needle, thread, and patience. We'll walk you through the slip stitch, the gold standard for invisible hemming.
5 min read · IrisHand hemming is one of those skills that feels intimidating until you actually do it—then you wonder why you ever paid for alterations. The slip stitch, also called a ladder stitch, is invisible from the outside and requires nothing but a needle, thread that matches your fabric, and about ten minutes per garment.
Whether you're shortening a pair of jeans that hit an inch too long or taking up a silk skirt, this technique works on almost any fabric. The key is patience and a steady hand, not precision cutting or special equipment.
The slip stitch is invisible from the outside because the thread runs inside the fold of fabric, never crossing the visible surface.
What you'll need.
- 01Hand sewing needle (size 7 or 8 for most fabrics)
- 02Thread matching your garment color
- 03Sharp scissors or fabric shears
- 04Tailor's chalk or fabric pencil
- 05Measuring tape
- 06Iron (optional but recommended)
- 07Thimble (optional, protects your finger)
Step one · 1 minute
Measure and mark your new hemline
Put on the garment and have someone measure from the floor to where you want the hem to hit, or use a mirror to eyeball it yourself. Mark this line with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil all the way around the garment. Try the garment on again to confirm the length is correct before you cut anything. This is the moment to catch mistakes—once you cut, you can't add length back.
Wear the shoes you'll actually wear with this garment when measuring. Heel height changes everything.
Step two · 2 minutes
Trim excess fabric and fold
Cut along your marked line, leaving about 1.5 inches of fabric above it. This extra fabric becomes your hem allowance. Fold this 1.5-inch strip to the inside of the garment and press it flat with your fingers or a cool iron. For heavier fabrics like denim, fold it twice—once to create a ½-inch fold, then fold again so the raw edge is hidden inside. This double fold prevents fraying and looks cleaner.
On knits or stretchy fabrics, use a narrower hem (¾ inch) to avoid bulk.
Step three · 1 minute
Thread your needle and knot the end
Cut about 18 inches of thread that matches your fabric color. Single-thread the needle (not doubled) and tie a small knot at one end. A single thread is less visible than doubled thread and creates a neater stitch. If you're nervous about the knot showing, start your stitching on the inside of the fold where the knot will be hidden.
Use thread one shade darker than your fabric if an exact match isn't available—it disappears better than thread that's too light.
Step four · 4 minutes
Execute the slip stitch
Start on the inside of the folded hem. Bring the needle up through the fold so it emerges right at the crease where the fold meets the garment body. Take a tiny stitch (about ⅛ inch) directly across into the main fabric of the garment, then slide the needle inside the fold for about ¼ inch before bringing it back out. The thread should run inside the fold, never visible on the outside. Repeat this pattern—tiny stitch into the garment body, slide inside the fold, emerge and repeat. Keep your stitches small and even, about ¼ inch apart.
Pull the thread snug but not tight. Too much tension puckers the fabric; too little and the hem won't hold.
Step five · 1 minute
Secure and finish
When you reach the end of the hem, take two small stitches in the same spot to anchor the thread, then make a small knot close to the fabric. Trim the excess thread. If you're hemming a full circle (like pants), overlap your final stitches with your first stitches by about an inch to ensure the hem is fully secure all the way around.
Test the hem by gently tugging on it. A properly sewn hem should feel solid, not loose.
Step six · 1 minute
Press and wear
Turn the garment right-side out and try it on. The hem should look smooth and even from the outside, with no visible stitches. If desired, give the hemline a light press with a cool iron to set the fold. The garment is now ready to wear.
Hand-sewn hems are durable but benefit from occasional re-pressing if the fold starts to relax after washing.
How to know your hem worked.
A successful hand-sewn hem is invisible from the outside and holds its shape through wearing and washing. The stitches should never peek through the fabric, and the hemline should be even all the way around.
Questions at the mirror.
My thread keeps breaking or tangling.
Your thread is too long. Cut it to about 18 inches maximum. Also check that your needle isn't bent or too small for your thread weight. If you're working with heavy fabric, use a thicker thread designed for hand sewing.
The stitches are showing on the outside of the garment.
You're catching too much fabric in the main garment body. The stitch into the garment should be tiny—barely ⅛ inch—and should only catch a few threads of the outer fabric, not deep into it. Practice on a scrap of fabric first.
My hem looks wavy or uneven.
The fold itself may not be straight, or you're pulling the thread too tight. Re-press the fold with an iron to flatten it, then re-stitch with a lighter hand. Even tension matters more than tight tension.
How do I hem a curved edge like the hem of a flared skirt?
The slip stitch works on curves too. Just take smaller, more frequent stitches on the curved sections to keep the hem from puckering. The principle stays the same—tiny stitch into the garment, slide in the fold, repeat.