How To · Fashion · Grooming Basics

Remove Pilling From Wool and Cashmere Without Damage

Pilling happens to the best knitwear—it's a sign of wear, not failure. Here's how to remove it without weakening fibers or creating holes.

5 min read · Iris
Fig. 01 · Pilling typically appears first on high-friction areas like cuffs, underarms, and chest.

Pilling—those tiny fuzzballs that form on the surface of wool and cashmere—is frustrating but fixable. It happens when short fibers work loose during wear and friction, then tangle together into visible knots. The good news: it doesn't mean your sweater is ruined, and you don't need expensive tools or professional cleaning to handle it.

The key is using the right removal method for your fabric weight and the severity of pilling. Aggressive approaches can damage delicate fibers, while gentle methods work best for investment pieces. We'll walk you through five proven techniques, from the gentlest to the most effective, so you can choose based on what you're working with.

Pilling is a surface problem, not a structural one—treat it that way.

What you'll need.

  • 01Soft-bristled brush or old toothbrush
  • 02Fine-tooth fabric comb
  • 03Sweater stone or fine pumice stone
  • 04Spray bottle for light misting
  • 05Lint roller (reusable preferred)
  • 06Clean towel for drying
01

Step one · 1 minute

Lay the sweater flat and inspect the damage

Place your knitwear on a clean, flat surface in good light. Identify where pilling is concentrated—usually underarms, chest, or cuffs where friction is highest. Check the severity: light pilling (a few scattered pills) calls for a gentler approach than heavy matting. Run your hand gently over the area to feel the texture and confirm you're dealing with surface pilling, not actual holes or thinning.

Avoid washing or wearing the sweater again until you've removed the pills. Friction will only make it worse.

02

Step two · 2 minutes

Try the gentle method: soft-bristled brush

For light pilling on delicate cashmere or fine merino, use a soft-bristled garment brush or old toothbrush. Brush gently in one direction across the pilled area, using light pressure. Don't scrub or apply force—you're coaxing the pills loose, not attacking them. Work in small sections and check your progress frequently. This method takes patience but won't damage fibers.

A dedicated cashmere brush works best, but a soft toothbrush is a solid backup. Avoid wire brushes entirely.

03

Step three · 2 minutes

Use a fabric comb for medium pilling

If brushing doesn't cut it, try a fine-tooth fabric comb (also called a lint comb or sweater comb). Hold the sweater taut with one hand and comb gently across the pilled area in short, controlled strokes. The fine teeth catch the pills without snagging the surrounding fibers. Work methodically across the entire affected zone. This method is more aggressive than brushing but still safe for most knitwear.

Comb in one direction only. Going back and forth can create new friction and worsen pilling.

04

Step four · 3 minutes

Deploy a sweater stone or pumice for stubborn pills

For heavy pilling on sturdier wools (not delicate cashmere), a sweater stone or fine pumice stone works quickly. Dampen the sweater lightly with water—not soaking, just a light mist. Gently rub the pilled area with light, circular motions using the stone. The friction will ball up the pills so they come away cleanly. Rinse the area with cool water and pat dry. This method is effective but requires a lighter touch than you'd use on actual stone.

Test on an inconspicuous area first. Sweater stones are abrasive and can thin fibers if you're too aggressive.

05

Step five · 1 minute

Finish with a lint roller for loose fibers

After any removal method, go over the area with a lint roller to pick up any loose fibers or remaining pill fragments. This prevents them from re-matting and gives you a clean finish. Use light pressure and roll in one direction. If you don't have a lint roller, a piece of packing tape wrapped around your fingers works in a pinch.

A reusable lint roller (the rubber kind) is gentler on knitwear than sticky paper versions.

06

Step six · 1 minute

Lay flat to dry and store properly

If you dampened the sweater, lay it flat on a clean towel to air dry completely. Don't hang it—wet knitwear stretches. Once dry, fold and store in a drawer rather than hanging. Friction from hangers accelerates pilling. Consider storing with cedar blocks or lavender sachets to prevent moths and keep the sweater fresh between wears.

Pilling prevention is easier than removal: wear undershirts under your sweaters to reduce direct friction.

How to know it worked.

A successfully de-pilled sweater should feel smooth when you run your hand across the previously affected area. The surface should be even and free of visible fuzzballs. If you used a sweater stone, the area may look slightly softer or less defined than surrounding fabric—this is normal and fades with wear. The sweater is ready to wear again.

Questions at the mirror.

Can I use a razor blade or electric shaver to remove pills?

No. Razors are too aggressive and will cut fibers, creating holes. Electric shavers designed for fabric are marketed heavily but pose the same risk. Stick to the methods above, which remove pills without damaging the knit structure.

Will removing pills weaken my sweater?

Not if you use the right technique. Gentle methods (brushing, combing) remove loose fibers that are already detaching. You're not pulling out fibers that are integral to the garment. Aggressive methods can thin fabric, which is why we recommend starting gentle and escalating only if needed.

How do I prevent pilling in the first place?

Wear an undershirt to reduce friction between the sweater and your skin. Wash less frequently and use a gentle cycle in cold water. Dry flat instead of hanging. Buy higher-quality knitwear—longer fibers pill less. Pilling is inevitable on wool and cashmere, but these steps slow it down.

Is pilling a sign the sweater is low quality?

Not necessarily. Even luxury cashmere pills because short fibers naturally work loose during wear. Quality matters in how long the sweater lasts overall, not whether it pills. Higher-end knitwear often pills less because the fibers are longer and more tightly spun, but pilling itself is normal.